Muzaffarabad
History;
The history of Muzaffarabad reveals that territory falling between the River Indus, River KishanGanga (Neelum), River Jehlum and to the north of Taxila up to Babuser Gali and the area lying below Kel were under the dominion of “Ursha Empire” with its capital in “Pakhli” .The “Ursha” rulers were basically Turks After this Karluk Turks, the soldiers of Sultan Subaktageen, who were all veterans joined Sultan Yameen-ud-Doula.
Muhammed Ghaznavi (who died in 421 Hijri), before taking over the reigns of empire while following the orders of Sultan, they were scattered in the surrounding areas. In the same way the Sawati tribes joined the Ghaznavi army and afterwards they migrated from Sawat to Pakhli.Before the inception of Islam culture of “Sammi” and “Ebraani”tribes had been developing here. It is for this reason that so many areas were named in Saami, Ebraani, Arabic and Turkish languages.
In the ancient past Muzzarabad was known as “Chikri” ,while another locally name was developed as “Mustang” .Boundries of Mustang started from Dechna and marked Chikri at below the western boundry at Karnah .It means that to south east of Muzzafarabad lied Mustang and to north east led Chikri.Prior to naming this area as Muzzafarabad ,there was a local government known as “Kurh Mang” Kurh Mang is Mughal/Turk word which means ,a land for the residence of soldiers and their chief to which we may call cantonment in modern word. Here the Turk ruler Kamal Khan ruled during this period. After that “Bamba” tribe appeared on the horizon in Kurh MKang and thereafter Sultan Muzaffar Khan rose to power after the attack of Turk General Zoulqadar Khan on Kashmir. before this Bombas abode in Badakhshan.They joined the army of Zoulqadar Khan(723 Hijri) and moved to the surrounding areas and settled in Dhamtour,Boi,Rajkot,Niazpura,Meerapura and Kurh Mang.The Bombas served during and for the defence operations undertaken by Yousaf Shah Chak before 494 Hijri.In the reign of Mughal Emperor “Akbar”,a few prominent persons like Sultan Mehmood Khan ,Sultan Abdal Khan ,Shah Rukh Khan and Khan Bahadar Khan and Karluk got power in the
surroundings areas. After the decline karluk dynasty, the Bombas got by influence and were strong enough to succeed. On the other hand there was continuous civil war and rebels became the cause of decline. In such a situation, Sultan Muzzaffar Khan set up an organized State by dint of his wisdom and statesmanship. In the adverse circumstances, it was necessary for him to shift the capital from Kurh Mong to somewhere else to have strong hold over the valley of Baramula up to the last boundary of Darawa.So at the desire of Sultan Muzaffar Khan a new capital “Muzaffarabad” was founded in the central place of Baramula,Karnah Pass and the River Kunhaar.It was named after the name of Sultan Muzzarabad Khan.This already populated area , selected for capital was most suited for military and administrative purpose . Sultan Muzaffar Khan setup an organized army and help the scholars and artisans to settle here .He granted them lands, entitled rights and assigned duties. They were the privileged class. In fact Muzaffarabad remained a flourishing place of culture and civilization during the last five hundred years. The Sultani mosque of that time is still situated at its original place. The shrines of Hazrat Syed Hussain Maqshbadi Hazrat Shah Mir Sultan Gillani,Gul Muhammed Kungaal Qadri Pir Allahuddin Gillani and Qazi Qutab-ud-Din reminds us the past.
At the time of partition in 1947, there was one high school and five mosques. In Muzaffarabad and adjoining areas, such great men were borne who laid their lives for the maintenance of freedom.Syed Ahmed Brailvi had also made his base camp here for freedom struggle. Sultan Zabardast Khan, his colleagues and the local freedom fighters which included Sadat, Barkaat Khan and Sheik Abdullah laid their lives for the freedom cause. Abdullah Khan and his son Ramatullah Khan got martyrdom and in battlefield and in prison . The sacrifices of this city in the freedom movement of 1931 and 1947 will always be remembered .This city is still the base camp for the freedom movement of Kashmir.
Muzaffarabad the capital of the Azad State of Jammu & Kashmir is situated at the confluence of Jehlum & Neelum Rivers .It is at the distance of 138 kilometers from Rawalpindi and about 70 kilometers from Abbottabad.
The total area of Muzzfarabad District is 6117 sq.kilomerers having projected population (estimated in 1994) about 0.660 million.
The present name of Muzzfarabad has been given to it after the name of Sultan Muzzfar Khan, a chief of Bomba Dynasty (in 1652), before it was called “Chakri”It was the seat of an independent state for quite a long period under its successors.
Being the capital of the State it has all necessary facilities of life i.e. President ,Prime Minister Secretariats ,Supreme Court ,High Court ,banks ,telephone and telegraph, university education ,Colleges & Schools, hospitals ,radio stations, Air Port ,handicraftshops,gas and fuel stations. In addition there are two historical forts, Red and Black Fort, situated on the opposite sides of Neelum River. The Neelum River .The Neelum rivers streams ,proudly through the hubbub of the town, joins rivers Jehlum at Domel and plays a dominant role in the micro climate of Muffarabad district is from April to early November .Muffarabad town also serves as a base camp for the tourist.
The city is now the combination of old and new buildings and a blend of different cultures & languages .It has besides official buildings, farms , parks and the historic fort standing on the banks of Neelum & Jehlum Rivers .Whole of the Azad Kashmir and Pakistan are connected with microsystem of telephone .
Surrounding by lofty mountains, its looks like a bowel-shape city .Behind the old secretariat to the east is road leading towards Pirchinassi at 2900 meters with good views of Jehlum and the higher mountains above the Neelum Valley to the north.
Past the red fort, crossing Neelum river at Ghori,a few kilometers at away is “Makra Mountain “about 3885 meters which is visible from Muzzfarabad and continues on to Shogran in the Kaghan Valley .This is superb short track ,although you need to camp overnight half way.
The capital city ,Muzzfarabad is not only the hub of political and cultural activities but also has various sports for leisure .View point “Saathra” is recently developed as a public place .The panoramra of the entire city and the junction point of Neelum & Jehlum Rivers “Domel”,present a magic beauty here “Maakri”hill parks add unbound beauty to Muffarabad “Loohar Gali”situated 9 kilometers from the city of Abbottabad road, offers a bird eye view of the capital city .At night the the lights of the city present an unforgettable sene from this point .
The upper Jehlum Valley makes another interesting scenc excursion from Muffarabad .Follow the Jehlum upstream by taking the road beneath the Domel Bridge .This was the old route to Sirinagar.The valley is broad with raised terraces above the river, where Rice and maized are widely grown.Some 10 kilometers out of Muzzfarabad the rivers widens to from a small lake, which was created by a land slip some years ago . AJK Tourism has constructed a small Angler’s Hut here ,which makes a pleasant picnic spot.
The well established market in Muffarabad can be explored for its walnut carvings, Kashmiri shawls and other traditional handicrafts. It is sometimes possible to get a good bargain.
Red and Black Fort
Border skirmishes between the armies of renowned Mughal Emperor Akbar and the Chak rulers of Kashmir were common .To ensure safety of the people and the land, Chak rulers of Kashmir were common .To ensure safety of the people and the land, Chack realized to raised defence posts and efficiently counter the offensives.
During the year 1549 the construction of the red fort was undertaken .Sultan Muzzafar Khan the of Muzzffar Khan the founder of Muzzfarbad city finally completed it durind 1646 .When the Mushals over took the Kashmir rule, this fort lost its importance .The Mughals were more instructed in Kabul, Bukhara Badakhshan .During the Durrani rule the fort again came into limelight and its importance was again rediscovered.
Maharaja Gulab Singh and Ranbeer Singh, the Dogra rulers, reconstructed and extended the fort for political and military operations towards the end of 1947 Dogra forces fled away leading the fort wide open to anybody.
The architectonics of the fort shows the great experts in design and structure participated in its construction .Neelum river formally known as Kishan Gaga surrounding it on three sides .The nothren part has terraces with stes leading to the bank of the river .The eastern sides of the river was very well protected from the hazards of floodwater but some parts in north were damaged during the flood of 1992 .There was an inn at the entry of the fort which has no terraices left now.
It remained in the bed shape for quiet sometime and wear desertedlook.the structure still stand with all it as inherent glory ,grandrur and all its historical background.Mughals built the black fort (also called Gojra Fort) above the river junction “Domel” but off limits to visitors.
Shaeed Gali
The comly beauty of the place seduces a restive mind to prolong his stay .Shaeed Gali situated at the height of above 1640 meters above sea level is at the distance of about 17 kilometers westward from Muzzfarabad .The road from Tahli Mandi, near the new bus stand leads the Shaheed Gali.AJK Toursim Dept.has constructed a tourist Res House at this scenic spot.4 Kms from Shaeed Gali,a track leads towards a whole some sport namely Sri Kot lush green forests presents panoramic view. This area is ideal for trekking.
AJK Toursim Dep. has launched a project of installion of Chair Lift from Mara Tanolian to Pir Chinassi which is in projects after completion will make this area as a remarkable tourism based neucleus.
AJK Tourisms has also constructed a Tourist Lodge at Saran to provide accommodation facilities to a tourists.
Patikka
The valley is accessible by an all weather road metalled upto Dowarian and well maintained up to kel.At gateway to this valley lies a sprawling town to Patikka with a dependable commercial center.Patikka can be the first journey break. This town has a modest bazaar with day-to-day activity.All essential items are available in this bazaar which feeds a fairly large numbers of villages behind it. On its back runs athe forth-emitting rivers Neelum.The village and bazaar connected by a suspension bridge crossable by Jeeps and light vehicles only.The runninstreams and waters channel across the Paticha village present another heart winnnning scene.This village is fully electrified.
The quality of life here is full of motions despite its simplicity.It is perhaps due to verdure.Financially, it is an affluenttown.Majority of the village folk is engaged in profitable business abroad especially in middle east countries countries.A number of scheduled banks of Pakistan are operating in the village on the strength of remittances from abroad. But despite fettering coffers, the town has no activity.
The serene atmosphere shrouded into lush greenery, milky-white water sourcesand their rhythmic flow totally absorbs the visitors.Added to the general plant fragrances in the sweet smell of menthol plants along the banks of nullahs.Its cut way across the crop fields in such wavy manner that its look as a white ribbon over green head of damsel nature. Ancillary roads link Patikha with other surroundings areasd uphill & down_Hill
JEHLUM VALLEY
Once this steep walled valley was the axis of travel and trade with the Vale of Kashmir. Also central Asia; Iran , Afghanistan and North West Punjab was linked to Kashmir through this road in the past. In 800 B.C Aryans came to Kashmir through this valley. The famous emperor of Iran9in 659 B.C0 Koraish Azam, with his forces came to Kashmir through this way. In Maharaja Ashok’ period Greeks entered Kashmir using the same way .In 1340 ,Zoulqadar Khan of Central Asia, invaded Kashmir through this way .Alberoni ,in his book pointed out the importance of his route ,while visiting Kashmir.Akbar ,a Mughal Emperor, made his first attack to Kashmir through this way. All this proves the historic importance of Jehlum Valley.
This is an ideal valley for both the domestic and international tourists. The curling Jehlum Rivers passes through the east to west between the high mountains to this valley and joins the River Neelum at Domel near Muzzfarabad city.
A 59 Km metalled all weathered road runs along the river Jehlum from Muzzfarabad to Chokoti,which is located adjacent to the line of control (LOC) .Several buses a day gone for Muzzfarabad to all parts of this valley .
Subri
6 Km from Muzzfarabad (Domel) ,the Jehlum River was dammed into a lake due to a cloud burst over a surroundings hills at Subri in 1975 .This sport is sutiable for fishing and boating .An Angler’s (contact to AJK tourism department, Bank Square,Chattar0provides accommodation facilities to Anglers
Dhani Baqallan
Dhanni Baqallan ,about 31 Km from Muzzfarabad is a junction where a road branches on South into a hill past several small stations ( at 1800 to 2100 meters ,with bracing weather ,good walks and view) like Chikkar ,Loan Bagla,Dungian ,Suddhan Gali and District Bagh,while the other leads towards Hattian,Chinari,Chakoti,Doa-Khan & Leepa Valley.
NAILY
Naily is 45 Km from Muzzfarabad and 12 Kms from Dhani Baqallan on the road side .Keeping the straight road ,one can reach to Chinari/Chakoti , while from Naily,road branches ,after crossing the bridge to Doa –Khan or Leepa Valley.
Chinari:
Chinari, at a distance of 51 Kms from Muzzfarabad, is situated on the left bank of River Jehlum surrounded by high hills. All the basic facilities viz.Bazaar ,hospitals,educational institions,post office,banks,telecommunications ,Forest PWD Rest Houses are available here .Ahead of Chinari ,towards Chakoti,a small falls attracts visitors.
Chakothi
Chakoti, 8 Kms a head of Chinari, is border village .Only domestic tourists can visit this area.
Chikkar
The hill station “Chikkar”, 44 Kms from Muzzfarabad has grown into a fairly large township .This summer station is located (1828 meters) on top of a mountain on southern side of Muzzfarabad –Chinari road. A road branches off at Dhanni Baqallan and leads to Chikkar.
The outstanding features of this hill station are is healthy climate picturesque surroundings.Standing over a hill one can have a fascinating view of the sub valleys.Chikkar is linked with Muzzfarabad by a motorable road and is connected with Bagh district via Suddan Gali.A Bazzar hospital, educational institutions, post office, banks ,PCO’s and other facilities are provided to the locals and visitors.PWD rest house and some middle standard hotels provide reasonable accommodation to a tourists.
Loon Bagla
12 Kms from Chikkar situated at an altitude of 2011 meters above sea level. Is another worth seen hill station in the middle of dense green pine forests and is linked by a fair weather road. To provide reasonable accommodation to a tourist hut (contact to DFO Jehlum valley Division, 058810-45331) is available.
Dungian
It is located about 5 Kms ahead of Loan Bagla .This place is surrounded by thick silver Fir forests.Its height altitude (2071 meters) and beautiful landscape have aspecial attraction for tourists.An experimental station for the proliferation of medicinial Herbs has also been established at this place.
Sudhan Gali
From Chikkar ,15 Kms ahead ,to downward ,Suddhan Gali is situated at the altitude of 2134 meters above sealevel .It links Chikkar with Bagh ,